Outposts of the Atlantic

The operation of the Royal Mail service between Africa and Ascension provides the only opportunity to visit these isolated and remote tropical islands. A unique feature of the journey is travel on a vessel with a purpose, carrying vital supplies and a world away from the glamour and commercialism of ocean cruising as we know it today. With extended periods at sea the RMS St Helena provides a comparatively small group of independently-minded passengers with a comfortable means of transport to these interesting and unspoilt destinations.
A visit to Namibia precedes a cruise on RMS St Helena (see page 15, opposite, for vessel details) to St Helena (for a two-night stay) and then on to Ascension. Time ashore on Ascension** precedes the return overnight flight to RAF Brize Norton.

St Helena
Although once a vital and busy port of call for East Indiamen returning from the Orient and, later, tea and wool clippers, there is no airport and it is still only accessible by sea. It is a place of amazing contrasts where deep verdant valleys quickly give way to barren desert and volcanic scree and is also a birdwatchers paradise being home to many beautiful seabirds including boobies, noddies, tropicbirds and terns. Two nights are spent ashore at the Consulate Hotel, an 18th-century building in the heart of Jamestown, close to the waterfront and harbour, in rooms with private facilities.

Remembered primarily as the place of exile for Napoleon Bonaparte (1815 – 21) the warm and friendly islanders (the Saints) today welcome visitors to their capital, Jamestown, a fascinating blend of old and new and little changed since the time of the emperor.

Ascension
Secret, remote and volcanic, this Atlantic outpost has over the years been vital to the needs of the Royal Navy (who annexed the island when Napoleon was brought to St Helena), Cable and Wireless, the RAF (as a refuelling stop during the Falklands campaign), the BBC and NASA. With access only by sailing on board the RMS St Helena or from RAF Brize Norton the island is an eco-tourist’s delight. Conservation is important - especially for the endangered Ascension green turtle and there is also a breeding colony of the Ascension Frigatebird. With its magnificent white deserted beaches walking tours are popular and a visit to the dormant (not extinct!) volcanic cones and fumaroles is recommended. Accommodation is at the Obsidian Hotel which was previously the official Government guesthouse in Georgetown.